The day before La Diada

I write these lines , looking out at the Mediterranean from my hillside home. I am in Sitges, Catalunya, Spain.

I chose a house here because of the town, the region, and the country. Sitges is a hugely cultural and tolerant town, just a short train trip south of Barcelona, and a slightly longer train trip from Madrid. France is about an hour away . The Basque country a little further away as is Cantabria and Galicia. But I can embrace it all,including Aragon-in  a day. Spain’s beauty lies in its diversity and large open spaces.

But , when not venturing out, I am happy in Sitges. The magnificent modernist movement came together here while the seaside promenade celebrates culture  in all its varied splendour ,from  El Greco to  GK Chesterton. There  are regular festivals celebrating some art form, craft, or religious icon. The wine harvest is nearly upon- something for all of Spain to celebrate. My neighbours are Argentines, Americans, Catalans,Basques, Castilians, Andaluzes. Our shared gardner is a Moroccan. There is a large gay community as there are many families with young children and grandparents. Our local priest Father Josep celebrates mass in Spanish and Catalan, and the doors of his church are open to everyone, whatever their sexuality or political beliefs, on the basis of mutual respect.

Part of me here relives childhood . When I was a young boy during the early 1960’s, I spent my family holidays just up the coast in San Feliu de Guixols. I learnt the Catalan  dance the sardana and my friends also spoke Catalan and Spanish, although less freely than  they do now. There were fewer flags around and you talked politics in whispers. But that was over fourty years ago. I first became a fan of FC Barcelona in the mid 1970’s when its star Dutch player Johan Cruyff defied Franco’s law limiting the use of the Catalan language, and called his son Jordi-Catalan for George . But I don’t support Barca these days because it is Catalan or democratic.  I support Barca because I like the way it plays football and bring up young players. I am critical of who it chooses as its main sponsors.

Today I enjoy living in a region that is culturally enriched by drawing from its own language and traditions, continues to make an important contribution to the rest of Spain, with which it enjoys a free movement of trade and people. I believe that Spain is a better country,having Catalunya as an important part of it, and that it would be a much diminished country were Catalunya to break away. At the same I am not at  all sure that Catalunya would be a better place to live in were to be independent. It too would risk being diminished without necessary becoming more democratic. Although I can see the attraction of dreaming you can start a better life after a divorce, I also believe that marriages are worth saving if each side is prepared to better understand and find good in the other.

I don’t know what most depresses me: the lack of statesmanship emanating from certain circles in Madrid that cant consider a third way-different to intransigence-or the mythical politics that drive those who believe that independence represents the best future for Catalunya and are prepared to do whatever it takes to achieve it.

I have never much liked the idea of mass demonstrations or unilateral declarations as a way of making progress- nor indeed a referendum- a caricature of  democracy  Dialogue, humility, honesty is lacking in Spain today, as is any sense of the common good. I do not plan to be in Barcelona tomorrow or in Madrid. I might head for the mountains of Aragon and go for a long hike.. On the other hand  might just head for the beach and embrace the ocean. Confrontation is not good for the soul.