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| Beyond
the Silver River: South American Encounters |
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"The train-number '485' stopped where the ground
levelled and the river widened and where the undergrowth had crept
down from the mountainside and encroached upon the railway line.
So great was the sound of rushing water that to step off the train
was to feel yourself placed momentarily beneath a waterfall. By now
the day was fading and the vegetation was dripping with humidity.
A thin mist had begun to shroud the mountains. Abus took us the rest
of the way to the heights of Machu Picchu, winding its way towards
the higher peaks. For the first time since leaving Cuzko, the tourists
had fallen silent, half awestruck, half terrified by the sheer drop
on either side of the road and the mass of vegetation that spread
out across the valley, which was covered in wild orchids and lupins.
When we reached the top the silence broke, as the toursist tumbled
out and raced towards the ruins. BY then we had decided to wait until
the bus had taken them down the hill again so we could see Macchu
Picchu by ourselves. The next days we watched the dawn break over
Machu Picchu. The sun's rays moved slowly across the gigantic
mountains of granite. Against a black backdrop, first one peak then
another became illuminated, the upper reaches cut off from the rest
by a collar of pinkish mist. Like a piece of creation, Machu Picchu
was revlealed to us in slow motion, the light spreading as it fell
down towards the ruins. Now the breadth and scope of each mountain
was defined as the mist evaporated, leaving only thin wisps, and
the sun grew bolder. Each mountain seemed to resemble a giant animal
rising from sleep. Under the sun, in the morning brightness, Huauyna
Picchu, which overlooks the site, was a gargantuan silver-lined lion
crouching and ready to pounce."
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